UCBR Auction Soaps Recipes

Usually I experiment with every batch, creating a unique recipe for each batch of soap. But with so many to do at once, I made it simpler and stuck to one base recipe, just changing the additives.


Base Recipe yields ~1 lb soap

Almond Oil 0.5 oz
Castor Oil 0.5 oz
Cocoa Butter 0.5 oz
Coconut Oil 4 oz
Olive Oil 4 oz
Palm Oil 4 oz
Shea Butter 0.5 oz

NaOH 1.96 oz (makes soap 7% super fatted)
Water 6 fluid oz (everything else is weighed, not measured)

Oils heated to 120 degrees. NaOH poured into water, then cooled to 120 degrees. Then heated oils and cooled NaOH/water mix are mixed together, and stirred. Once soap is brought to trace, all other additives, such as essential oils, herbs, coloring, juice, etc., are added. Any extra instructions listed by individual soap.

1. Lavender: 2 tsp lavender essential oil
2. Lavender Patchouli: 1 tsp lavender and 1 tsp patchouli essential oils
3. Lavender Mint: 1tsp lavender and 1 tsp spearmint essential oils.
4. Patchouli Mint: 1 tsp patchouli and 1 tsp peppermint essential oils.
5. Sweet Orange: 0.5 tsp litsea cubea and 1 tsp tangerine essential oils. 
6. Spearmint w/ French green clay: 1.5 tsp spearmint essential oil and 2 tsp French green clay
7. Lavender Rosemary: 1 tsp lavender and 1 tsp rosemary essential oils.
8. Double Mint: 1 tsp peppermint and 1 tsp spearmint essential oils. 2 T ground mint.
9. Balsam Chocolate: 2 tsp balsam essential oil. 1 T cocoa powder.
10. Garden Rose: 1 tsp palmarosa and 1 tsp geranium essential oils. 1 T Moroccan red clay. 
11. Eucalyptus: 2 tsp eucalyptus essential oil.
12. Rosemary & Lemongrass with poppy seeds: 1 ½ tsp lemongrass and 1 tsp rosemary essential oils. ½ T poppy seeds.
13. Rosemary & Peppermint: 1 ½ tsp peppermint and 1 tsp rosemary essential oils. 
14. Eucalyptus Mint: 1 tsp eucalyptus and 1 tsp peppermint essential oils.
15. Chocolate Mint: 2 tsp peppermint essential oil. 1 T cocoa powder.
16. Cedar: 1 ½ tsp cedarwood essential oil.
17. Patchouli Orange: 1 tsp patchouli, ½ tsp sweet orange, ½ tsp tangerine, ½ tsp mandarine and ½ t litsea cubea essential oils.  
18. Black Licorice: 2 tsp anise essential oil. 3 tsp instant coffee diluted in 2 T hot water.
19. Peppermint, Rosemary and Orange: ¼ tsp mandarine, ¼ tsp sweet orange, ½ tsp tangerine, ½ tsp rosemary, ½ tsp peppermint, and ¼ tsp litsea cubea essential oils.
20. Geranium, Patchouli and Orange: ½ tsp mandarine,  ½ tsp tangerine, ½ tsp geranium, ½ tsp patchouli, and ¼ tsp litsea cubea essential oils.
21. Rosemary, Lime and Orange: ½ tsp lime, ½ tsp rosemary, ½ tsp mandarine, ½ tsp tangerine, and ¼ litsea cubea essential oils. ¼ cup calendula petals. Sprinkled with rosemary.
22. Balsam and Lavender: 1 tsp lavender and 1 tsp balsam essential oils.
23. Lemongrass:  2 ½ tsp lemongrass essential oil.
24. Oatmeal Buttermilk & Honey: 1 oz ground oatmeal, 2 T powdered buttermilk and 2 T honey. Stir by hand only. Do not insulate. Cover with wax paper.
25. Pumpkin Soap: ¼ cup pumpkin puree. ½ tsp nutmeg and ½ tsp ginger essential oils.
26. Flowering Herbs & Chamomile: Olive oil infused with 1 T each (after ground) rose petals, jasmine , lavender, calendula and chamomile. Several drops of German chamomile essential oil.
27. Aloe Soap: 2 oz aloe vera (weighed) 
28. Carrot Juice Soap: 4 fluid oz carrot juice.

The Last 2 Auction Soaps: #27 & 28

There they are! The last 2 batches of soap I made for the 2010 UCBR Auction (for details see the link).

#27 (top) - Aloe Soap: I don't know why it looks purple, but it is really green!!! Maybe a blue-green - I'll give it that, but certainly not purple. I added a good bit of raw, uncolored aloe to the soap at trace, and it I have high hopes for this one. It put it in a flower and leaf mold. Totally unscented.

#28 (bottom) - Carrot Juice Soap:  I never thought my juicer would be used in making soap, but the carrot juice colored the soap beautifully.  I added it at trace (instead of simply subbing the juice for the water at the beginning of the soap process) so that the properties in the juice would be less harmed.  Like the Aloe Soap, this one is unscented.
The mold is the Celtic Triquetra w/in a Triquetra, which is an ancient Celtic design found in art like the Book of Kells, chiseled into stone, in metalwork, and even used later in Viking artwork. What it means, we really don't know. It may symbolize any of the Celtic three-fold Goddesses, like Brigid. Although it dates before Christian times, it was used to symbolize the Trinity as well.   Though if you know me, you know I picked the mold for my love of Celtic knotwork rather than anything it symbolized.

This weekend while at an SCA event, I was asked if my soap would be available to those not attending the auction.  I do take custom soap order starting at $1 an ounce and with a 2 pound minimum of the same type (it's difficult to make cold process soap 1 bar at a time!).  I still encourage everyone, even if you're not a church member, to make it to the auction.  I probably won't have this much variety of scent, color and shape in one place until next year's auction!

Of course the alternative is to make it yourself.  As soon as I get my chicken scratched notes in order (tonight or tomorrow), I'll post my recipes for all 28 of the soaps.  I do warn you, soap-making is addictive.

I'm already planning my next scheme, I mean project, for this year's auction: 12 Weird Jellies.  But first I have to figure out a way to make a poll on Blogspot. I can't decide from my list of 24 which 12 to make, so I need help deciding.

New UCBR Auction Soaps #24-26

It's been a few days, and these have been sitting in my laundry room curing a bit before I cut into them. I have 2 more batches in the freezer - otherwise they won't come out of their fancy molds - making my total 28 soaps!!

Okay, so it's not my high goal of 30, but it's certainly more than my low goal of 24. As long as the total soap in the basket weighs 100 ounces, it'll all be good. A year of soap has been made!

• #24 (top left) - Oatmeal Buttermilk & Honey: after one failed attempt, it came out beautiful and smells great too. I made a 2 lb batch, since a friend wanted a pound, but I'll still have a couple of bars left to sample.
• #25 (top right) - Pumpkin Soap: Since my carrot juice soap (one of the fancy mold soaps in the freezer) looked so lovely, I wanted to try a batch of pumpkin. Lightly scented w/ ginger and nutmeg, like pumpkin pie, the beta carotene will be great for the skin.
• #26 (bottom) - Flowering Herbs & Chamomile: I started by infusing the olive oil w flowering herbs, such as lavender, chamomile, jasmine, rose petals, and caldendula. For 2 days, the herbs steeped in the oil with heat being occasionally applied. I scented the soap w/ German chamomile oil to make it smell like apple blossoms, and then swirled it blue. Very pretty and smells like spring! But the great thing about it will be it's healing properties.

Hopefully by Sunday, I'll have pics of the last 2. But the UCBR Auction Gala is April 17. If you want these soaps, be prepared to bid. One basket will be for the silent auction, and the other for the live auction.

Soap Drama

Last night I had options. I could have gone to Mother's Night Out with my home-school group and seen a movie. I was really looking forward to my first Wednesday Night Craft night. And I really want to start going to Wednesday's of Wonder at my local church and do cool things with the kiddos. I had planned on doing all three, although the plan on how I can do 3 things in one night hadn't been hammered out yet.

But no, I was home making soap because 2 of the 4 batches I made Tuesday night flopped.

Botched Soap #1: Oatmeal Milk & Honey Soap

The reason I take copious notes when I do anything is because I never remember what I do. I'm well known for my bad memory. So why I didn't read my notes from the last time I made Oatmeal Milk & Honey soap, I don't know. Note #1: combine the oils and lye water when both are between 90 and 100 degrees. I combined them at 120. Note #2: hand stir the additives. I used the stick blender. #3: cover the soap with waxed paper, not plastic wrap - the intense heat melts the plastic wrap. Guess what I covered it with. And #4: do not insulate. Oh, I covered it with a nice warm blanket.

So when I woke up yesterday morning, there was a 1/4 inch layer of oil on top of the soap and it did not look good. Plus the plastic wrap had shriveled from the heat, which was intensified by the insulation.

Honey does something to the chemical reaction the soap goes through during the first 48 hours. It intensifies that reaction, which is why I can't treat it like just another batch of soap. My guess, due to the magnified heat, the lye more quickly broke down and rebonded with the different components of the fats. But the heat was high enough that all unclaimed fat floated to the top instead of suspending in the soap. So what is left on the bottom is soap that's 100% saponified. It's probably still soap, just strong soap. That's my educated guess.

I did remake it, and this time I followed my notes. It still went through different stages than normal soap, and it was fun to show the kids "chemistry in action." After adding the honey, the soap turned a golden brown. About 10 minutes later, it was a pumpkin orange and much hotter to the touch. 30 minutes later, it was brown and the center, where the heat was most intense, was dark brown, and even hotter to the touch. This morning, it's now back to a beautiful golden brown - all one solid color and cool to the touch. No oil on the top. No melted plastic wrap. Looks perfect!

I don't make this type of soap often enough not to follow my notes. It's been about 5 years since I made it. That was about the time I started my quest for the perfect bar and stopped playing with additives.

Side note: My Quest for the Perfect Bar of Soap

About 5 years ago, I started trying to discover the formula for the perfect soap. I do realize that the definition of a perfect soap is purely subjective, but I have my own ideals.

The Perfect Bar of Soap (for me) has 6 Different Qualities:
1. A good quantity of Lather
2. A good stability of Lather
3. A variety of bubble size
4. Moisturizing & conditioning to the skin
5. A sufficient hardness so that it lasts longer than commercial soaps
6. Cleans well

I’m still on the quest, and I’m pretty close. Ever since I started this quest, I stopped playing with adding things like oatmeal, honey, and carrot juice and concentrated solely on base oils. I have gotten to know my base oils and each one's attributes very well.

Back to the botch job . . .

Botched Soap #2: Green tea and Hibiscus

I wanted to start experimenting with infusions - steeping herbs in either oil or water. Oil infusions I've done many times, but I wanted to try infusing green tea and hibiscus in the water used for the lye. Green tea has a great scent, and hibiscus makes a lovely deep red when steeped.

I made a strong tea from hibiscus and green tea and let the tea come back to room temp. When I poured the lye into the tea water, it went from a deep burgundy to bright green - think Christmas green. In the back of mind, I instantly heard a lecture snippet from a chemistry class I took years ago informing me many natural plants can be used as homemade litmus tests, such as cabbage and HIBISCUS!

My idea of a lovely deep red soap was dashed when my water turned from red to green to brown within seconds. The jury is still out on this soap, but it may very well become my future laundry soap. My homemade laundry soap is where botched soaps go to die in my house.

As of this morning, I have 28 of the 30 batches I need for my auction donation, and I have until Friday night to finish. Now to decide on the last 2 batches.

And Some More UCBR Auction Soap: #18 - 23

I'm like a new mother constantly taking pics of her baby until people say, "Enough already! We've seen enough of that kid! Only you are interested in a million pictures of the child." But instead of a child, it's my soap!

Well, for those not utterly bored already, here's some more of my UCBR 2010 Auction Soaps - until I get to 30, you'll have to bear with me. I made these on Sunday, so I'm a few days behind in posting them.
Top Row from left to right:

#18 - Black Licorice: scented w/ anise essential oil and colored with coffee. For those of you who don't cook, black licorice is flavored with anise. This one made my whole pantry smell like black licorice. I was hoping to color it black with white swirls, so I used coffee to color the base and ground mica (it's a mineral) to color the swirl. The swirl came out a beautiful pearlescent color, which you can't really see in the pic. But the coffee part turned light brown. You never know what the final color will be when you use more natural things to color soap, but I prefer more natural than certainty in color.

#19 - Peppermint, Rosemary and Orange: scented w/ essential oils of peppermint, rosemary, mandarin, tangerine and sweet orange. I was going for a light blue base with a yellow swirl, but the colors intensified a bit. I actually like it. Still very pretty.

#20 - Geranium, Patchouli and Orange: scented w/ essential oils of geranium (smells like roses), patchouli (to give it an earthy smell). mandarin and tangerine. Believe it or not, I tried coloring this one with pink rose petals, but, yes, it turned dark brown. I'm not sure if I'm going to scrap this one and make another #20. Let's give it another day or two to see if it looks any better. Smells great though!

Bottom Row from left to right:
#21 Rosemary, Lime and Orange: scented w/ essential oils of rosemary, lime, madarin and tangerine. I'm proud of this one. I colored it a beautiful orange using calendula blossoms, and then topped it with rosemary. Calendula is very good for the skin and makes a very mild soap. The color is gorgeous.

#22 Balsam and Lavender: scented w/ essential oils, this light purple soap is in the shape of an Irish Claddagh. The Claddagh symbolizes love, friendship and loyalty. I chose these scents to go with it since both balsam and lavender are soothing.

#23 Lemongrass - scented w/ lemongrass essential oil. Although only one of these goes into each soap basket, I had to take a picture of all 4 versions. They came out of the molds perfectly. Of course the 3 day stay in the freezer didn't hurt. This mold is my most difficult for removal, and more often than not the Chinese symbols are destroyed, but I still love the molds. I used lemongrass to scent it because lemongrass is such an Asian scent.

What I did While I was in the Hospital

Okay, maybe I didn't do the whole thing while I was in the hospital, but I finished it while sitting on an emergency room bed. Turns out that it was nothing serious - the ER visit that is. But it gave me some quiet time to work on my stitching and take a break from soap making.

This will turn into my SCA green belt (I'm apprenticed to HE Master Charles Pierre de Bourbon). It's a pair of Celtic ravens based off the knotwork and birds from the Book of Kells. I modified some of the art in Master Gerald of Ipsley's book Celtic Embroidery, of course after I verified it's from the BOKs.


It's normal DMC cotton thread done on a linen background in a split stitch. The stitch is contemporary to the period of the Book of Kells. If I had done it in linen thread rather than cotton, it would be totally period (except the black thread - they didn't have true black). But since it was my first full fill-in embroidery attempt, I went with cheaper thread.

I think it came out very nice. My stitching is more even, and I learned a great deal.

Auction Soaps 14, 15, 16 & 17

More UCBR auction soaps! I've been a busy beaver, and I'm getting closer to my goal of 30, and I still have 6 days before my deadline in order to give the soaps 8 weeks to cure.

Top Row from left to right:

#14 Eucalyptus Mint - a blend of peppermint and eucalyptus essential oils scented soap made into a layer of light green and a layer of dark green using oxides to color.

#15 Chocolate Mint - one of my all time favorites! I scent the entire soap with peppermint essential oil and then add cocoa powder to half of it. It smells edible (but don't eat it!).

Bottom row from left to right:

#16 Cedar - I needed some man-ly scents, and I love the smell of cedar (who else goes through the lumber section of Home Depot smelling the wood?). A semi circle bar with a dark wood green color.

#17 Patchouli Orange - In a beautiful Celtic knotwork square - I scented this bar with patchouli essential oil and an essential oil mix of mandarin, tangerine, and sweet orange essential oils. I tried to color it orange, but it came out a light orange-brown, which is still very pretty.

They are all still a little sticky. Making the small one pound batches is a bit trickier than one would think, so I have to add a little more water than I normally would, which leaves the soap a bit stickier for longer. A good air curing will take care of that, and in about 4 weeks they should be nice and hard.

But the molded ones, like the Celtic knot, are difficult to get out of the molds without messing up the pretty bits. Which is why I have a batch of lemongrass in the freezer - 'cause I still can't get it out of the Chinese character molds.